To replace a kitchen or vanity faucet and add a shut-off valve, just follow these steps:

Shut off the water to the whole house than take the pressure off the waterlines. Opening up the outside spigot is a great way to relieve the pressure. That way when you cut into the waterline, you won’t get a face full of sprayed water. The main shut-off is usually located either by the water heater, or underneath the home.

Remove the old faucet by unscrewing the waterlines, then unscrewing the mounting nuts. The picture shows a close-up of a mounting nut. Often times you can just reach up and turn-off the plastic nuts by hand. The metal nuts will require a wrench or slip-joint pliers.

Cut off the ends to the old waterline about 12 inches back or so. If you have white Pex or gray Poly waterlines, a plastic tubing cutter works well.

Locate the materials needed (pictured from left to right for connecting your faucet to existing gray poly waterlines) – 1/2″ poly crimp ring, 1/2″ pex to poly transition fitting, piece of white pex waterline with two 1/2″ crimp rings, 1/2″ pex to 3/8″ male shutoff valve, 16″ or 20″ flexible faucet connector. If you already have white PEX waterlines, then all you need is the shut-off valve and the faucet connector. The existing PEX waterline will crimp right to the shut-off valve.

Assemble the pieces. Using a 1/2″ crimper, crimp the rings to the white Pex. Screw the faucet connector to the shut-off valve. Don’t overtighten. Thread paste or tape is not needed. I have new 1/2″ and 3/4″ crimpers available for $95 by emailing me. $125 may sound expensive, but as little as 3 months ago, the price was double. One call to a plumber would pay for the cost of this easy to use tool.

Mount the faucet to the sink as per manufacturer instructions

Then screw-on the hot and cold waterlines. Don’t overtighten. Thread dope or tape is not needed. The picture shows how the connectors should be screwed on, although you’ll do the fastening underneath the sink. Fasten the sprayer too, if included.

Crimp the new connectors/shut-off valves to the existing waterlines.

Turn on water and check for leaks.

This article is in courtesy of Mark Bower at
Mobile Home Repair

The construction methods of both are very similar, with the primary remaining difference being that some jurisdictions may classify them differently unless the axles are removed from the mobile home. A few jurisdictions may still classify both differently from conventional stick-built dwellings, although that is no longer common.

Whether you decide to live full-time in your manufactured home or just use it seasonally, there are a number of pros and cons to be considered.

What are some of the pros of manufactured homes?

There are many benefits to manufactured homes, some of which aren’t common knowledge:
1. The cost of construction materials is considerably lower than for conventional stick-built construction. Since manufacturers can purchase their materials in much larger quantities, they realize tremendous savings, which can be passed on to the buyers.

2. Because of the assembly-line construction process, there is much less waste of materials. Well planned cutting of materials provides for maximum utilization and minimal time lost. Engineers plan the most efficient material usage and pre-cut components are readily at hand.

3. A manufactured home is typically completed in a matter of just a few weeks, while stick construction will usually last several months. The savings afforded here are substantial, with virtually no idle time to create a budget drain and little to no delay from inter-dependent tasks.

4. Materials on a site-built project are always prey to theft or vandalism, with some general contractors routinely seeing 10-20% material losses, but factory construction avoids this issue entirely.

5. Mother Nature can increase costs as well, with materials being damaged by moisture and wind, due to their prolonged exposure to the elements. The protected environment inside the manufacturing facility reduces this risk to zero.

6. The delay of deliveries to a job site can result in work stoppage due to a lack of materials, while the workers left standing around continue to generate labor costs. Task dependencies can increase those losses exponentially in some instances, but this risk doesn’t exist in a manufacturing facility.

7. Inclement weather can create substantial construction delays on a site-build, particularly in areas with severe or unseasonal storms. This often means not only the work stoppage during the storm, but several days thereafter, while waiting for the site to dry out sufficiently to resume work.

8. Site workers typically work only 5 days, single shift, while factories often run two or even three shifts per day, six days per week. This can dramatically expedite completion of the construction, getting the new owners into their dream home months ahead of a brick & mortar project.

Between all these factors, manufactured homes can usually be occupied by the new owner at a cost per square foot that averages around 40% less than a conventional stick-built home. To give you an idea of what that means to the bottom line, imagine the difference between a $250K loan and one for $150K. That’s a $100,000 of principal, that even at a low 6% interest rate, will cost another $72,000 in interest over a 20 year term. For a $172,000 savings, who wouldn’t be willing to consider an alternative?

Oh… and a factory-built home can be moved to another location relatively easily and inexpensively. Try doing that with a brick & mortar home and see how the cost compares.

Are there any cons?

While some jurisdictions have limited the use of mobile homes and even some manufactured homes in some areas, the removal of the axles will often bypass those restrictions, and place the factory-built home in the same classification as one that is site-built. This most often occurs in areas that are prone to severe storms such as hurricanes and tornados.

In some extreme cases, it may be necessary to place the factory-built home on a solid foundation with secure anchoring, in order to be considered as a conventional home. The cost of such a foundation is still far less than the difference in cost between the two options, making the choice obvious to most.

Some insurance carriers are unwilling to ensure mobile homes and a few even shy away from manufactured homes. Again, this most often occurs in areas that are prone to severe weather that may be particularly hazardous for such structures. However, many jurisdictions mandate that insurers must offer home insurance to owners of mobile and manufactured homes.

There are also some financial institutions that choose not to finance the purchase of non-conventional, stick-built housing. However, many manufacturers offer their own financing options at competitive terms.

Few will argue the fact that a stick-built home will appreciate more rapidly in value than its factory-built counterpart. This is in great part, due to the misconception that surrounds the durability of manufactured homes. There was even a time when unlike a conventional site-built home, they depreciated in value as they aged. This false perception of lesser value and decreased longevity is gradually being overcome, however.

What about the quality?

The construction standards for manufactured homes are typically set by the local codes and standards body, the same as for site-built homes, so there’s no concern about lower quality in manufactured housing. On the contrary, manufacturers have a number of advantages over general contractors, when it comes to meeting standards and workmanship.

Factories constantly exercise various checks and balances to ensure that specifications are adhered to and that workmanship is top notch. Their workers also perform the same task several times each day, rather than once every few months, so they often can claim a greater proficiency in their jobs.

Additionally, incoming materials are normally inspected for compliance with quality standards whereas on a site-build project, there is often little more done than ensure the ordered quantity was received. By the time a major discrepancy is discovered, it’s often too late to correct it and the problem gets hidden.

Suppliers also would be risking a very large account by sending less than top quality material to a manufacturer. It’s just not worth the risk to them. A home builder, on the other hand, may order less in an entire year than a manufacturer consumes in a single week.

This all combines to demonstrate a probability that the materials and workmanship found in a factory-built home are equal to or better than those encountered in a stick-built version.

What about a location?

There are numerous options available for a location for your home, regardless of whether you intend to live in it full-time or only seasonally. Obviously, one is to place it on your own purchased plot of land.

But there are other alternatives, as well. The “trailer parks” of decades ago, when mobile homes and trailers were a relatively new concept, have now given way to a broad array of specialized communities, sometimes called trailer courts, mobile home parks or mobile home communities. A small parcel within the community is leased, and includes provision of utility connections, and in some cases, even includes the services. These communities often include common areas such as a civic center, swimming pool and sports courts.

These communities were made popular in the early days, when mobile homes were relocated more often than is the case today. It is estimated, however, that only about 5% of the mobile homes in use today will ever be moved, and even fewer manufactured homes will see a new location.
Property taxes are also considerably lower per square foot than the stick-built versions can boast, which has been another major factor in many jurisdictions limiting the influx of such homes to prevent loss of tax revenue.

So what’s the downside?

Summing it up, a manufactured home can be purchased for close to half the price of a comparable site-built home, it will be completed in a fraction of the time and it will be of equal or better quality. Financing the much lower price will allow the loan to be paid off faster, saving tens of thousands of dollars in interest, and property taxes will typically be substantially lower. The home will give many decades of serviceable use, appreciate in value and can be relocated, if desired. It will serve well as either a full-time residence or a seasonal vacation home, requiring no more maintenance than any other construction method.

Apparently, there is no downside.

From the CurioCity, a blog devoted to curiosities.

courtesy of Complete Mobile Home Supply

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Where safety is concerned, such as with electrical circuits or gas lines, it’s always wise (and sometimes may be a legal requirement) to let a certified professional accomplish repairs and installations. But for some things, there’s no reason not to save money and gain experience by doing it yourself.

Kitchen Sink Repair

For instance, there’s no need to pay a plumber to replace the sink faucet in your kitchen or bathroom. Here are eight simple steps for a problem-free faucet replacement:

1. Get the right replacement – Identify the type of faucet you need. Is it a wall-mount or deck-mount? Is it a center mount faucet, as many single-lever faucets are, or does it have two valves? If there are two valves, measure the center-to-center distance between them (8” is the most common).

   Some center mount faucets will still have a base-plate that will cover two valve holes in the sink, which can allow you to install either type as the replacement on that sink. Check to see what holes are available in the sink itself, from beneath, to see what your options are.

   (For this guide, we’ll assume you’re dealing with a deck-mount faucet. If you’re looking at a wall-mount, you’ll probably be looking at different plumbing connections, so this guide won’t help you.)

2. Prepare yourself – Make certain you have all the tools and materials you’ll need, before starting. Crawling under the sink cabinet isn’t so much fun that you’ll want to make various trips. If the flexible hoses look old or warn, get replacements when you pick up the faucet. If the new faucet doesn’t include a neoprene or plastic base gasket, pick up a small container of plumber’s putty. Take a look under the sink and ensure that you have the right tools to be able to remove/install the fixture nuts and water connections. A basin wrench is a very handy, inexpensive addition to your toolbox that can save you both frustration and bruised knuckles.
3. Prepare the area – Clear everything out of the cabinet beneath the sink, rig a drop-light and gather all your tools before you start. It’s suggested you include a small container and a towel, as there will inevitably be a small amount of water spillage. Often, the most expedient method is to lay on your back with your head and shoulders inside the cabinet, so be certain you have enough room to work and will be able to easily reach all your tools. (Safety note: There will be corrosion/rust/grime on the bottom of the sink deck. When working with your face directly beneath the deck, you will undoubtedly dislodge particles which can fall into your eyes. Wear eye protection!)
4. Remove the old faucet – Turn off the water supply to the faucet. There should be a small valve where each of the water lines enter the cabinet area (hot is normally on the left, cold on the right). Turn these clockwise to close them. You can now open the control valve(s) on the existing faucet in order to release any pressure.

   If you aren’t replacing the water supply hoses, you’ll only need to remove one end of each of them from the old faucet. You can drain the water that is in the hose into that small container that you so thoughtfully brought under the sink with you. Now loosen and remove the tube nuts that fasten each water tube or valve to the deck from below. (This is where you’ll realize what a brilliant investment that basin wrench was.)

   When the tube nuts are removed, you can lift the old valve directly up out of the deck holes and discard it.

5. Prepare for the new faucet – There will be residue of plumber’s putty and/or grime where the base-plate rested, and this needs to be thoroughly cleaned before installing your new faucet. Any built up mineral deposits can be removed with vinegar or a water deposit cleaner. When the deck area is clean and dry, you can either place the neoprene/plastic base gasket or lay a bead of plumber’s putty around the edge beneath the base-plate. Many people prefer to use both, to ensure water will not get under the base-plate.
6. Set the new faucet – Assemble the new faucet, and lower it directly down into the deck holes. It can be helpful, though not imperative, to have a helper maintain the faucet in its aligned position while you tighten the fixture nuts from below. If you’re working alone, though, you can simply snug them well, realign as necessary and finishing tightening. When that’s completed, you can connect the water hoses to the water tubes.
7. Testing the connections – Before opening the supply valves, open the control valve(s) on the faucet. Using a towel, carefully dry any moisture around all the connections beneath the sink, as this will make it easier to spot any leaks. Slowly crack each supply valve open slightly until you hear water running out of the faucet. Check carefully for any leaks, running a dry fingertip around all connections.

   Repeat this for both the hot and cold supply lines, and tighten any connections that seem to be seeping water. When you’re satisfied there are no leaks, you can close the control valve(s) on the faucet. You’ll need to check for leaks again at this point, as with the control valve(s) closed, the pressure in the faucet and supply hoses will be increased.

   When you’re satisfied that your installation has no leaks, you can open the supply valves fully. It’s a good idea to check for leaks beneath the cabinet again after an hour or so, because faucet bodies have been known to crack or leak, which may not be evident immediately.

8. Clean up and wrap up – If you used plumber’s putty, you’ll find that it was partially squeezed out when you tightened down the base-plate. This extra residue is easily cleaned up with a finger tip and rubbing alcohol. You can now reclaim the under-sink area for storage and clean up your tools. You’re done!

There are many “tricks of the trade” that professionals develop or discover that make such tasks easier or less problematic, but if you’re willing to follow instructions carefully, you can take advantage of them, too.

For instance, the basin wrench was invented and patented by Arthur Andree, of Oak Park, IL, in 1920. His inventive nature can be credited with helping you complete your kitchen or bathroom faucet replacement like a true professional. Other plumbing tools in common use today are the Stilson pipe wrench (invented by plumber, Daniel Stilson in the 1860s) and channel-lock pliers, which you probably used today. Give a hat-tip to those folks… they made it easy for you to save some money today.

Manufactured homes, which can also be called pre-fabs, are built in a factory with the same materials used by their stick-built counterparts. In fact, everything from the 2 x 4’s and the fiberglass insulation to the shingles and the front door are the same. Sometimes they even use the exact same suppliers for those products. The only difference is the physical location of the construction process. So, what are the benefits to building a home in a factory?

1. Pre-fabrication of a home indoors saves time for excited new homeowners. In fact, homes built using this method can be constructed in weeks instead of many long months.
2. Building a house in a factory can save up to 40% per square foot over the more conventional site-built house, which can decrease the average monthly mortgage payment considerably. In this economy, many people are reconsidering their housing options and opting for smaller payments.
3. Mother Nature is the biggest player in the stick-built construction process. She can wreak havoc on everyone’s schedule by throwing curve balls like rain, wind, snow, extreme heat and frigidly cold weather at the tradesmen. The roofers can’t get those shingles installed in the rain and their delay may end up preventing another crew from starting their step in the process. On the other hand, when a house is built in a factory, the line keeps moving, rain or shine. The skilled teams can work in comfort all twelve months of the year, without delays of any kind.
4. In addition to delaying the actual construction process, weather can also damage materials left on site. Quite often, materials like wood, siding or even landscape shrubs are left on site to ensure work continues at a consistent pace. Unfortunately, in an attempt to be organized, contractors may inadvertently be exposing themselves to loss and delays due to rain or other weather factors. Factory-built homes do not have such problems like this. Materials are stored indoors, in a protected environment, and are readily available for the team as needed.
5. Like it or not, vandalism is always a problem on a construction site. Neighborhood teens are drawn to empty houses at night and may have a little too much fun at your expense. Sure, insurance covers any loss, but the time delays while waiting for new product can be frustrating. When a house is built in a factory, it is safe from any would-be thieves or vandals, eliminating what can be a devastating event during what should be an exciting time in your life.
6. Time can also be wasted waiting for materials to be physically delivered to a stick-built site, whereas factories are well-stocked. Houses are built day in and day out; there is no down time to wait for supplies. No icy roads. No windy conditions causing traffic jams. In fact, the concept of the assembly line and factory construction of a house has greatly reduced almost every aspect that frustrated homebuilders for years.
7. Manufactured homes also buy supplies in bulk, not for one or two houses at a time. So, in addition to no longer waiting for supplies, you can rest assured that you are getting the best price for them, a quantity discount. Just like Henry Ford, those cost savings are passed directly on to the consumer.
8. Manufactured homes are planned meticulously. Modern home builders want to eek every last bit of efficiency out of the raw materials. The process in a factory is controlled and every last step is planned out. Things are dramatically different in the stick-built world. A general contractor cannot watchevery cut made on every sheet of plywood to ensure that it is being used the most effectively. Measure twice, cut once is a big reality that, unfortunately, comes out of the homeowner’s pocket. In fact, waste is always a big problem for any site-built home. Many general contractors try every way imaginable to fight it, sometimes to no avail.
9. Every tradesman considers himself (or herself) a craftsman. Whether they work on site or in a factory, they take pride in the work that they do. A factory-built home, however, gives a much greater opportunity to hone one’s craft. In fact, the art of the assembly line allows for one precise action or series of actions to be repeated and, in turn, to be perfected. Many manufactured home companies have specialized teams trained to perform one specific task and to perform that task exceptionally well. That’s an experience that can’t be duplicated during traditional building practice.
10. In using the assembly line method, the house can move quickly and efficiently through each phase of the construction process, saving that all-important time. That’s right. The house actually moves. There is little need to climb on roofs or carry around ladders. Work is performed at a comfortable height for the crew, which not only increases safety but also decreases the time that it takes to complete the task.

Maybe Henry Ford would be surprised at how far his ideas had led America and, really, the entire world. Maybe he already envisioned what was possible with the implementation of an assembly line. We’ll never know. What we do know is that time is money. Delays due to weather, vandals and unavailable product are not only unacceptable, but also expensive. In fact, many new homeowners may be temporarily making two mortgage payments, their existing one and payments on the construction loan. When it is tough to make that happen every month, hearing that a few raindrops is draining one’s bank account is unnerving. Sometimes homeowners sell their existing home and suddenly find themselves in the opposite situation – nowhere to live. Or, worse yet, some very unlucky homeowners have run in to so many delays and cost overruns that they are no longer able to afford their long-awaited dream home.

The use of a climate-controlled factory for the construction process virtually eliminates all of the above frustration. Being able to move into a new and much-anticipated home in weeks instead of months is great news for any new homeowner. Better still knowing exactly when it will be ready and how much it will cost. Henry Ford would be so proud.

The Stick-Built

The Biltmore

This traditional style of building a home involves building it “in situ”, or right there in the place where you intend to live in it. Once the foundation is poured, the construction begins from the ground up. The labor-intensive process can take months, sometimes years, to finish. Actually, the name “stick-built” is sort of a misnomer; perhaps in days passed they used actually sticks. A better, more appropriate, term is site-built, meaning the house is built right there, on the site. A site-built house is expected to conform to all local and state building codes, of course, and will last for many years.

Interesting Side Note: The largest site built home in America is the Biltmore Estate, the Vanderbilt family home in North Carolina. It is a mind-blowing 175,000 square feet and took over six years to build.

The Kit House

A kit house is essentially a site-built house that arrives in one big puzzle box. All the pieces, from the shingles to the nails for the deck, are counted out, numbered, boxed up and shipped to you. It is your job (or your contractor’s) to unpack all the bits and pieces and put them together. The concept of a kit house was actually the brainchild of the Sears and Roebuck catalog company. At the turn of the century, many parts of the country still had little access to building materials and supplies. It’s not like there was a Lowe’s or a Home Depot on the corner. There was nothing. Nothing except a train depot. The marketing geniuses at Sears knew they could sell more product if they bundled everything together. And, they did. In fact, the concept of having your house delivered was very popular and the surviving structures are valued today for their place in architectural history.

The Pre-Fab 

Lustron House

A pre-fab, or pre-fabricated, house is one that is constructed in pieces in a factory and then shipped to the building site. You may think that this a newer process, but it has existed since the rapidly-expanding housing needs of post-WWII America. When the soldiers returned, they needed a place for their growing families to live. Houses were being built as fast as possible, but alternatives were actively sought. One solution was the Lustron house.

Carl Strandlund came up with the idea for the Lustron house using steel that was coated with porcelain enamel. The houses were considered to be maintenance-free and three-times stronger than a site-built home. In fact, the advertising touts that they are “rodent proof, lightening proof, rust proof and fire proof”. Strandlund set up shop in a former airplane hangar, where his team pre-built sections of the houses and then shipped them across the country. The sections of roofs and walls were assembled on site for a cost-effective and speedy solution to the nation’s housing shortage.

The idea of sections of a house being prefabricated in a factory has continued to grow. In fact, a new breed of young architects is devoted to bringing these modular homes to the masses via the very same construction techniques that Standlund pioneered. The houses still comply with local and state codes, of course, and should have the same longevity as its stick-built cousin. Modular homes may or may not be less expensive than a stick-built home. It really all depends on the finishing touches, which is a personal decision. The timeline for construction, however, is dramatically improved. Without weather to impede their progress, workers can produce modular sections all year long.

The Manufactured

Manufactured Home

A manufactured house is another construction method meant to streamline the process and reduce costs. Like pre-fabs, manufactured houses start their life in a factory. Full sections of house are pre-assembled in a climate-controlled factory and shipped on truckbeds to the site. With the help of cranes and heavy equipment the two halves, or three sections, are joined together by professionals on a foundation of the homeowner’s choosing. The mechanical systems are all pre-installed and just need to be hooked up on site, which also speeds up the construction process and, in turn, reduces labor costs. Like all the other construction methods, manufactured homes conform to all state and local building codes. Sometimes this style of construction is called a mobile home, but, typically, they only move once.

The Truly Mobile

Last, but not least, are the truly mobile homes – the oversized Class A motorhomes and bus conversions.  Once reserved for touring rock stars, this house has changed dramatically in recent years. More and more people are retiring and deciding to take life on the road. The lure of being able to pick up and drive south when the weather gets chilly is appealing as is the sense of adventure as they explore North America. Gone are the days of touring with a tiny teardrop trailer pulled behind your car. These homes on wheels are equipped with everything from luxury appointments, full-sized bathtubs, built-in bunk beds for the kids and state-of-the-art navigational systems.

All this luxury comes at a price of course, but the construction process itself is streamlined once again using techniques culled from Strandlund’s Lustron homes and others. The vehicle’s chassis is usually purchased from another manufacturer and brought into a giant warehouse where workers add all the components to make this Class A or the larger bus conversions into an enjoyable and habitable home. The warehouse makes construction possible year-round, however, many models still have up to a year-long wait list.

Your House

There is no right or wrong construction method to choose. All can meet state and local building codes and, at the conclusion of the construction process, all give you a shelter. You need to find one that works for your family’s needs and your budget. If you are looking for a hands-on project, a kit home may be the right choice for you. If time is of the essence a factory option like pre-fab or manufactured may be a better option. Research your choices, find the space and floor plan that works and ask questions. Lots of questions. An informed homebuyer always makes better choices.

No. It’s not a fashion statement, although it could be. Trailer skirting is the trim piece that is attached below a mobile home to hide the structural elements and the foundation. It improves the overall appearance of a mobile home and protects it from the elements.

Trailer skirting is available in many materials and colors, but the most common choices in the United States are aluminum and vinyl. Both are attractive and suit the purpose. There are, however, pros and cons to each selection.

The Backstory

To produce the aluminum skirting used on mobile homes, manufacturers chemically treat aluminum coil to protect the metal, paint it to give it an appealing color and, finally, bake on an enamel outer coating for durability. Since the 1940’s, aluminum has been a popular choice because it is lightweight and easy to install.

In the 1970’s, both the rising cost of raw materials and the energy crisis caused manufacturers and homeowners alike to turn to other sources. Experiments had already been performed with vinyl as a construction material since the 50’s and it was ready to step into the limelight.

Vinyl siding and skirting is not a natural material, but rather, a man-made one. The complicated process involves melting vinyl pellets at high temperatures. Resin and a number of chemical additives are inserted into the mix including ones specifically designed for stabilizing, strengthening and UV resistance. The vinyl is then pressed into molds of various lengths, widths, thicknesses and patterns depending on its eventual intended use.

Both vinyl skirting and aluminum skirting can be recycled, melted down and used again. The question of green lies in the both the chemicals and energy used to create the product in the first place. Environmentalists are concerned about how the manufacturing process may be damaging the environment.

Life Expectancy

Aluminum skirting is said to last in excess of 30 years and, depending on the manufacturer, vinyl skirting is listed at 15-100 years. In fact, some sources state the aluminum will outlive the building it is installed on. That may seem like quite a long time, but one thing is for certain, both products outlive their wood counterpart. Neither option rusts, rots or attracts termites. In fact, aluminum mobile home skirting is also fire retardant, which can be advantageous with some homeowner’s insurance policies. Obviously, a number of factors can affect the life expectancy of trailer skirting, including but not limited to strong winds and hurricane-force gusts, proximity to salt water and baseball parks, intense heat and summer sun as well as severely cold winters and ice storms.

The most important take away is that homeowners should perform their due diligence and inquire as to not only the life expectancy of their product of choice but also the manufacturer’s warranty, which can be an entirely different set of numbers. Knowing the facts can help when making an educated decision.

Color

For many people, the all-important question is, “What color does it come in?” And, it’s a good question, too. A decade or two ago the answer would have been much more limiting, slightly reminiscent of the famous Henry Ford quote about color options on the Model T:

“… any color, so long as it’s black.”

In this day and age, however, the options are plentiful. The manufacturing process of both vinyl and aluminum has improved to allow for a plethora of colors. Sure, hot pink still is not one of the choices, but you can rest assured that the selection is vast. In fact, the nature of vinyl even allows for an array of textures to be imprinted on the material for even more stylish options in mobile home skirting, like stone and brick patterns.

Durability

Aluminum will last for decades. That is not to say, however, that it will still look good in 50 years. Aluminum is a soft metal and, while it is perfect for use in this application, it is not the most durable metal. It is prone to both dents and scratches. Unfortunately, you cannot drive your mobile home up to the local body shop to have them buffed out. Aluminum skirting also has a tendency to fade, especially the darker colors. Warmer, southern climates can experience fading rather quickly.

On the other hand, vinyl products, especially vinyl siding and skirting, is extremely durable. It won’t dent or scratch. Plus, the color goes all the way through the material so even deep scratches are hard to detect unless pointed out. There have been reports that, over time, vinyl can crack instead of dent.

Like aluminum, sunlight can cause color fading over time. Manufacturers usually circumvent this problem by producing light colors, where fading would not be noticeable. Unfortunately, repairs and replacement boards installed years after the originals are easy to spot due to the color variance.

Maintenance

Let’s face it, we are all busy. Work, families and life, in general, keeps everyone running on full speed 100% of the time. When homeowner’s do find spare moment to relax, the to-do list is a mile long. Having mobile home skirting that is maintenance-free is not only a plus, it is downright mandatory. Unfortunately, nothing is ever truly maintenance-free, but caring for mobile home skirting is essential.

Both vinyl and aluminum skirting respond well to an annual wash from a pressure cleaner. Be sure to use a low setting to avoid damaging both the skirting and how securely it is attached. Over time aluminum skirting may need to be re-painted, usually every five to ten years. This is easy to detect through oxidation, a powdery residue (sometimes called “chalk”) that remains on your hand after touching aluminum that needs a paint job. Vinyl, on the other hand, is not meant to be re-painted and any attempts at the process yield poor results.

Ease of Installation

An experienced installer can easily put up either aluminum or vinyl skirting with ease. The question remains: how easy is it for a homeowner, a do-it-yourselfer, to install?

Luckily, both products can be cut with tools around the house, from a sharp pair of snips to a circular saw. With a little time, a lot of patience and the proper tools, skirting can be installed with ease by any weekend warrior. Installing vents and access panels is a little trickier because more precise cuts are involved. This has been said many times before, but with good reason:

Measure twice, cut once.

Cost

The difference between the cost of aluminum and the cost of vinyl skirting continues to expand. The problem is three-fold. The raw materials needed to make aluminum skirting are becoming harder to find, which, in turn, has led to an increase in cost. Plus, the manufacturers of vinyl products have streamlined their process through continued learning and experimenting. As with any product made in a capitalist society, the more you sell, the cheaper you can sell it for.

That is not to say that price should be your deciding factor in your selection. As the above points illustrate, the decision-making process is difficult and the points to consider are many. Do your research and choose the best product for your particular mobile home skirting needs.

K-Rok panels are made to interlock with each other no matter what size you are using.  To accomplish this, cut at the patented trim line on one panel, then overlap it onto the adjacent panel.  The rock shapes will match up perfectly.

It works the same between two panels of different sizes as well.  When set on the ground, the rock shapes match on a 32″ panel, next to a 36″ panel, and a 48″ panel.

Types of Mobile Home Skirting

The options in mobile home skirting are various and ever-changing. Traditional metal skirting has been superceded by vinyl, now coming in a variety of colors and requiring little to no maintenance. The downfall of old tin underpinning was its tendency to dent and difficulty to transport. Once damaged, metal skirting is hard to return to its original condition; the dents never really come out properly.

Another conventional option is wood latticework. This perennial favorite has always been a popular choice, either left natural or painted white, but newer technology has created much more exciting, resilient and longer lasting choices.

Vinyl is a much more durable product than both metal and wood in mobile home skirting and a better decision for long term durability. Vinyl doesn’t dent, rot or fade, so it is a practical, cost-effective solution for most applications in residential construction. Homeowners can choose between solid color vinyl panels or newer, simulated stone and brick options in a variety of colors.

In fact, the faux stone is a choice that is growing in popularity. It seems as though each new pattern is more realistic than the last and creates a truly luxurious design aesthetic for your home. The faux brick panels are available in several color options and give the appearance of the real deal as well. For those that love their mobile homes, it’s great to finally have stylish options comparable to those of stick built homes.

The Hidden Benefits of Mobile Home Skirting

First and foremost, mobile home skirting is designed to hide all the structural elements and grading materials below your home. It is designed to stretch to the ground to give mobile homes a finished, polished look. There are also other reasons and benefits to adding skirting to any manufactured home.

Animals. Critters. Rodents. Pests. Given the option of climbing up in a tree or under your warm, cozy home, most would prefer to make their home directly below yours. Securely attached skirting prevents larger pests, like raccoons, skunks, and porcupines, from being able to access the area below your home. Mice and rats have been known to actually chew through flooring to get up into a home so preventing access in the first place is a great idea.

Skirting also helps maintain a median temperature beneath the home by creating a natural barrier. Preventing cold winter winds, hot summer sun and extreme temperatures from building up beneath the mobile home can reduce your heating and cooling costs. Insulating below the floors with rigid insulation can add to this benefit.

Storage is an issue for every homeowner, regardless of the home’s size or construction method. There is never enough closet space, garage bays or square footage in the shed to hold all of the stuff. This is even truer for mobile home and trailer owners. Space is at a premium, yet skirting allows you to create more storage solutions under your home and take advantage of that unused space.

Installing one or two access doors, ideally located at opposite ends of the home, will give you quick and easy access to this newfound square footage. Use the space for seasonal yard tools, exterior holiday decorations, extra building materials or anything else sturdy enough to be stored outside in a non-temperature controlled environment.

Installation Tips for Mobile Home Skirting

The first step in installing new or replacement skirting is properly measuring the home. You will need two pieces of information: the linear feet and the average height (yes, you really do need to use math as an adult).

To find the linear footage of a home, measure the entire perimeter, both long sides and both short sides. So, a home measuring 16 feet by 50 feet, would have 132 linear feet (16 + 16 + 50 + 50 = 132).

To find the average height, you need to take measurement at several places. Measure the distance from the ground to the bottom of the home in six places, each of the four corners and in the middle of the two longest sides. Add all six numbers and then divide by 6; this is your average height.

Skirting usually comes in 12 foot panels, which is important to know, but your salesperson can help you determine exactly how much skirting, trim and hardware to order for your project, if you provide him or her with the linear feet and average height. It is helpful to note that you should order an extra panel or two in case you damage one during installation. Heavy storms and strong winds can also damage skirting panels. New ones can be ordered, but the dye may be slightly different than the original batch you received resulting in colors that do not match up properly.

If the situation arises where you do need to order just one panel, it is important to note that, just like a 2”x4” is not exactly two inches by four inches, neither is a 12 foot panel exactly 12 feet. In fact, a 12 foot panel is closer to 11’8”.

Installing mobile home skirting is simpler than it looks and only a few tools are involved. In fact, depending on what brand and style of skirting you purchased, the panels, corner trim and track pieces can all be cut with anything from a sharp pair of tin snips to a circular saw.

The Importance of Ventilation

All construction projects, residential and commercial, stick built and modular, need proper ventilation. Ventilation guarantees proper air flow, which, in turn, prevents water from building up beneath your home. Without the right amount of ventilation, this water can gradually warp the floorboards and, in extreme situations, can promote mold growth.

So, how do you gauge the right amount of ventilation needed for your mobile home skirting project? Simple. Divide your home’s square footage by 150. In other words, you need one vent for every 150 square feet of floor space. For example, an 850 square foot home would need six vents (850 ÷ 150 = 5.66, rounded up to six).

When installing vents, they should be evenly spaced along the perimeter of the home. In our example above with six ventilation panels, the best option would be to install two on each of the longer sides of the home and one at each end. Be sure to install them in the center of each skirting panel. Cutting holes at the end of a panel decreases its strength and, over time, can shorten the life of the panel. Perforated vents in vinyl skirting have the proper ventilation already built-in, one reason why this type is perennially popular.

Mobile home skirting is a fun, fashionable way to finish the exterior of your home while protecting your assets. Whether you choose plain, vinyl panels or the newer, faux brick and stone variations, you are investing in your mobile home. By increasing its worth and improving its overall appearance with mobile home skirting, you also have the satisfaction of coming home to a house that you are truly proud of and will enjoy for years to come.